Tree Planting & Maintenance

Would a coniferous or deciduous tree work better for your goals? Coniferous trees, for instance, can be planted to block winter winds. Deciduous trees can be helpful planted to the south and west of your home to block sun during warmer months and to let the let the sun’s light and warmth in during the cold months. Strategically placing trees can actually lower home energy costs. 

Think about what the tree will look like at maturity. It is not always easy to imagine what a small sapling will look like or how much room it will take as it matures. Think carefully about space. If a tree will not fit, consider a shrub instead (see our suggested shrub list on this page).

Do you need something that can withstand drought, or is your soil moist? Is the soil sandy, clay, or loam? Learn how to identify the conditions you wish to plant your tree in. A tree’s shape, height, size and its function in your landscape will determine the best tree to plant in a particular location.

We highly recommend the planting of native trees. Native trees, the kind of trees that have evolved here over millennia, support local wildlife and protect local biodiversity. Native species have also evolved to thrive in local climate, light, soil and moisture conditions. Please have a look at our extensive native tree list that can be found on this page that provides a lot of valuable information on each species and can help you find the right tree for your needs.

Approved Tree Planting List

Before digging, contact Ontario One Call (a free service) to mark any underground utilities. Avoid planting trees close to overhead utility lines, overhanging buildings or other mature trees. Trees should not be planted within 2 metres of sidewalks, light posts or buildings.

The best time to plant trees is in the weeks right before leaves emerge in the spring, and after leaves have fallen in the fall, typically from mid-April to the end of May and from mid-September to mid-November. Some trees such as Oak trees and other nut trees prefer to be planted in the fall. When the leaves are not out and the soil is warm, trees can focus their energy on growing roots instead of leaves.

Soil temperature should be consistently at, or above, 10 degrees Celsius to ensure root development and nutrient storage, both of which are important after transplant. 

Water availability is critical year-round and often determines whether young trees can heal from transplant shock and fully establish themselves in their new location. Whether it’s through natural precipitation or manual watering, trees will grow more easily when they have a consistent water supply in the first few years after planting.

Protect your tree well during transport by padding the trunk and branches gently with burlap and tying loose ends with soft rope or twine.

Plant your tree as soon as possible after delivery. If planting is not possible right away, store the tree in a cool, shaded area and water as needed to keep the roots and soil moist.

• The hole should be two to three times wider than the container. 
• Square the hole. This can help prevent circling roots.
• Flatten the bottom of the hole so your tree will sit level.
• Don’t dig too deep. Planting depth is very important and can often lead to premature tree death if incorrect. After you dig the hole, you can check if the depth is correct by placing the tree, in its container, in the hole. If the soil in the pot is not exactly level with the level of the soil that you are planting into, add soil back into the hole until it becomes even or remove some until it does. When placed in the hole, the tree’s root collar/flare (i.e., where the roots join the main stem or trunk) should be flush with or slightly above ground level.

• Using a lot of pressure on the trunk to remove the tree from the pot can harm the tree. A gentle tug on the trunk often removes the tree from the pot. If it doesn’t check for roots growing out of the bottom of the pot. Detangle them, cut them or cut the pot off.
• If roots growing outside the pot are not the problem, place the tree and pot on its side on the ground, apply pressure with your hands to the side of the pot and roll it back and forth. After a minute or two, you should be able to remove the loosened tree easily from the pot.

• Note, it is quite likely you may need additional soil to plant your tree once you have removed the sod. Have some good quality topsoil on hand before you plant.
• Check the rootball. If the roots are tightly woven together or if they appear to be circling themselves, you need to loosen them to prevent the roots from continuing to circle which will eventually girdle and kill the tree or make it unstable.
• For burlapped trees, place the root ball in the hole and gently cut away the wire basket and burlap.
• Plant the tree so that its root collar is flush with or slightly higher than ground level and the tree is vertical.
• Important! Stand back and look at the tree from a distance. Is it straight? If not, make the necessary adjustments. A tree planted on an angle will not straighten as it grows.

• Fill the hole in and around the root ball with the soil that was removed. Do this using a small hand trowel or with your gloved hands. Shovels can often slip and damage the trunk of the newly planted tree. 
• Do not return any grass or sod to the hole.
• Gently pack the soil around the root ball until the hole is two-thirds full to remove air pockets.
• Fill the remaining space with water to settle the soil and allow the hole to drain.
• Add the remaining soil and again, lightly pack in the soil. You can also, lightly and carefully, tamp the soil down around the newly planted tree with your foot, being careful not to touch the trunk. 

• Apply mulch (wood chips) to a depth of 5 to 10 cm in a doughnut shape (not a volcano) around the root area, ensuring it doesn’t touch or crowd the trunk. Mulch piled up against the trunk promotes mold, disease and high girdling roots that can kill the tree.
• Mulch helps to reduce the growth of weeds and grass, retain water in the soil, minimize temperature fluctuations, and provide a slow release of nutrients.
• Re-mulch as necessary (e.g., spring and fall) over the first few years.

• Water the tree immediately after planting and water deeply (30 to 50 liters) at least once a week (or at least twice a week during times of high heat and/or drought) and continue to do so for at least two years during the growing season. 
• Water at the base, ensuring to wet the entire root ball.
• Don’t plant flower gardens under newly planted trees for the first several years as flower gardens can require more water than newly planted trees need. 

• Staking trees is not necessary unless they are exposed to high winds or if the soil is shallow. 
• If you do choose to install stakes, make sure the bands around the tree are soft to protect the trunk be sure to remove them after one year so the trees can strengthen on their own.
• Also, please do not use metal stakes as they can get caught in the roots and be impossible to remove. Use wooden stakes instead.

• Avoid adding fertilizer unless soil tests indicate a need for specific minerals and nutrients.
• A light application of compost under the mulch when re-mulching is necessary could be beneficial.

• Pruning can improve branch spacing and can promote a strong structure for your tree when done properly.
• Please watch pruning tutorials or consult a tree specialist to employ the proper technique. Improper pruning can damage or kill a tree.
• Only remove dead, damaged or rubbing branches. 
• Pruning should be done when the tree is dormant during late winter.

• Avoid hitting the tree with a lawnmower or trimmer.
• Avoid using salt, high nitrogen fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides around trees, especially new ones.